Well, I'm definitely back in this country. I'm loathe to mention it as my other blog has been apparently frozen, at least for my own access, hence the shift over to here. But you know where I am, so we'll leave it at that. All hail democracy and free-living...
Last week I had a pleasant couple of days jaunting about on the back of a friend's motorbike. Made more pleasant by the fact that this person is someone I seldom see (hardly know in fact, but still think deserves the term friend albeit en potencia) but enjoy his enthusiasm for the land that I'm swiftly falling out of love with. He doesn't live here anymore, I do - I think therein lies the secret.
Day one was a late lunch-feast of Bun Thang, a soup with pretty much everything in, noodles (bun) included. This was followed by a very realistic day in the life of a motorbike rider and went a bit like this...
Flat back tyre discovered and bike wheeled around the corner to the nearest xe-fixer-upper.
Hand gestures, swift movements, phone-call to local to sort out the deal, xe-guy zipping off to get the cheap inner-tube specifically not requested, zipping back, fixing it, showing us the state of the tyre, taking the money and waving us off.
A trip to the people who rent the bikes and a fairly circular conversation later it was decided that the best course of action was to take the bike to the renter's mechanic and replace the back tyre. Off we went.
Sitting on little blue stools sipping câphé dá watching a craftsman at his work isn't that unpleasant a way to pass half an hour or so when you've got nothing else to do. And really it was insightful as to what I'd be letting myself in for if I did take that step into the Honda Wave(y) ocean.
The afternoon was then ours again so we went for a ride around the Lake (you know - the big one, of occidental denomination) soaking up the general Ness of this place and stopping for a fabulous drink of an alien gnarly fruit, ginger, sugar and ice which was quite addictive. Sau dá is possibly the name.
Then I got to play. I climbed onto the front seat of a motorbike for only the second time in my life (and this year) and had a go.
The first time I tried to ride a moto it was a Nuovo - a fully automatic, heavy beast of a machine which caused me great grievance at how it seemed so keen to conform with the laws of gravity, much to my surprise. It was not, all in all, a very successful event.
This time, however, I had some element of control (gears!), could put my feet on the floor when necessary, and not only hold it up, but also steer it. Yay. I was quite pleased with myself when I handed control back to the rightful driver after completing several laps around a volley-ball match in both directions and getting into 3rd gear.
The following day, my instruction was less successful - mainly because it took place in a little village just on the way back from Ceramicadia* where little kids decided to entertain themselves by jumping in my path (they know no fear!) and pretending to be Policemen, but also because I think I lost the knack overnight. Next time...
But the rest of the day was great. Getting out of The Big Smoke* helped. Seeing water buffalo for the first time in this country was also something special. They were just there on the side of the road, covered in mud from their recent wallow in the nearby pond, munching away contentedly, oblivious to the traffic trundling past. Peaceful beasts and similar to the inhabitants of this land in their manner and ability to simply watch, chew and be still until something is demanded of them.
I ate far too much street food last week. Most of it was good but I think the attack of it on my digestive system was too much. Foodly goodness in lands where I don't get sick so often is something I miss. The cuisine here is fantastic, but would be improved tenfold with some minor attention to detail.
And the lingering wistfulness. I do miss Europe. I miss people. I miss comprehension, freedom, and peace; walking, fresh air and sea breeze; privacy and space. I love the stimulation of being here, because every single day has a multitude of challenges and sensory wonders, but I think, like others, I'll appreciate it a lot more when my residence is elsewhere.
*Not Actual Name
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